How to Ski Vail on a Powder Day

The author and his son hit it just right on a big powder day in Teacup Bowl.

I’ve been skiing and guiding in Vail for more than thirty years. Vail Mountain is a vast ski area, encompassing more than 5,000 acres across two separate mountain ridges. Its sidecountry terrain is adjacent to Vail’s East, West and Southern boundaries and is accessible via the Vail lift system through designated backcountry gates. There are no public information resources on the Vail sidecountry and you won’t get it here from me.  If you want to ski in these backcountry zones, you should take an AIARE course and hire an AMGA-certified Mountain Guide.

Five to ten times a year, a big storm rolls through the Central Mountains of Colorado.  Vail gets crushed with snow and becomes the best place to ski in North America. It takes planning to be in position for these big cycles, and the best way to know for sure when and where it will happen is by subscribing to Joel Gratz’s excellent OpenSnow app.

Being there is one thing but knowing what to do and where to go is another. Vail is a busy place on a powder day, and it gets skied out fast. There are a million different lines and every local has their favorites. What matters is your strategy and I’m here to give you two of those for a big powder day. Before I do, please follow these important rules:

1.     Be in line at Gondo One by 8:15am. The lifts spin at 8:30am. If you’re late, you’re just another tourist on a powder day.

2.     Every day is good but there needs to be at least 7” of new snow overnight to be a powder day at Vail.

3.     Check the grooming report to see what got mowed the night before.

4.     You’ll only go as fast as your slowest member – keep your group small and compatible. There are no friends on a powder day at Vail.

The best real estate in the lower 48 on a powder day – the Back Bowls of Vail.

Strategy #1 – Western Zone and BlueSky Basin.

Run #1: Warm-up on Dealer’s Choice - from the top of Gondo One at 8:50am, lift Chair #3 and ski across the top of Game Creek Bowl to the Western ski area boundary. Dealer’s Choice and Lost Boy get groomed almost every night. Dealer’s is a great warm up and you can suss out your group’s skill set on this run. If they can’t ski it top to bottom, leave them there. Lift Chair #7.

Run #2: Game Creek West Aspect – turn left off Chair #7 and traverse around to the East entrance to Game Creek Bowl. This west-facing aspect, called Faro or Faro Glades, is only good with a lot of snow and no sun crust from the previous afternoon, but on a powder day, is one of the best pitches at Vail. Lift Chair #7 again.

Run #3: Sun Down Bowl - enter Sun Down Bowl through the gate to your right and traverse around into your first Bowl Shot of the day. Consider whether South or East aspects will provide better and fresher snow conditions. The drainage in front of you is Widges gully and everything drains down there.

Run #4: Sun Down Bowl - there’s a new lift as of the winter of 2023, Chair #17, Sun Down Bowl Lift, that will take you back up Ricky’s Ridge to the top of Chair #7. Take another lap down Sun Down Bowl to the bottom of Chair #5. Chair #17 adds an extra run to the Western Zone on a powder day. Lift Chair #5.

Run #5: Teacup Bowl - it’s now 10am, and the crowds are starting to make it up the hill. You’re on top after four untracked runs, so it’s time to head to Blue Sky for the opening. Take the Sleepytime Road all the way across Sun Up Bowl to the Teacup Bowl entrance and ski the East Aspect of Teacup down to the Skyline Express Lift, Chair #37.

Run #6: Big Rock - Blue Sky opens at 10am on a powder day after Patrol is done with their bombing runs. Getting there any earlier means you’re standing in line instead of skiing. Lift Chair #37, turn left and head East down the traverse road to the top of Big Rock. Ski a fresh run in the fantastic north facing trees that get groomed every night. Take Chair #39, Pete’s Express Lift, on your right at the bottom.

Run #7: Grand Review – if it’s groomed, this is one of the best, most consistent pitches in Vail and not to be missed on a powder day. First tracks on Grand Review is a memorable run. Ski back to the base of Blue Sky and lift Chair #37 again.

Run #8: Montane Glade – the west aspect of Earl’s Bowl is a classic piece of Vail real estate. The farther out the ridge you go, the tighter the trees get and the more northerly the aspect, but it’s all good – just find a fresh line and mind the little cliff band at the top. Ski to the bottom and lift Teacup Express, Chair #36. 

Run #9: Lunch Run: it’s now 11:30am and you’ve skied eight untracked powder runs at Vail, roughly 12,000 vertical feet – Mazel Tov.  As you lift Teacup Express #36, note that the West Wall below you and the rest of China Bowl is completely tracked out. You’re tired and dehydrated, but happy. Time to head down the front side for your Noon table at Pepi’s or Alpenrose.

February 4, 2021 – it’s a powder day!

Strategy #2 – Eastern Zone and into the Sidecountry.

Run #1: Warm-up on The Slot – it’s a drag race off the top of Gondo One on a weekend powder day, but if you’ve made the effort to be among the first to lift, it will pay off here. Lift Chair #4, Mountaintop Express, and ski the Slot untracked to chair #9, a big warmup but delightful if it’s been groomed. Lift Chair #9, Sun Up Express.

Run #2: West Wall – you’re on top of the biggest face in Vail on powder day and if the gate is open in front of you, you’re headed straight for Jade Glade or Genghis Kahn, 2000’ vertical feet of powder bliss. If the gate is closed for avalanche control, turn around and ski back down Yonder to the Sleepytime Road to Teacup. Either way, you’re headed to China Bowl lift, Chair #21.

Run #3: China Bowl – it’s 9:30am now and you’re the first lift in China Bowl – the world is your oyster! I like to take the Chopstix treeline but really anything untracked in front of you will ski great. Lift Chair #21 again.

Run #4: Mongolia Bowl – traverse out around the corner and ski the East face of Mongolia, it’s all good out there. I like to traverse across the gully at the bottom and ski the low angle pow on Red Square back to China Bowl lift. Lift Chair #21 again.

Run #5: Chopstix – it’s 10:15 and the crowds are starting to drop into China Bowl, but you’re on the lift and they can’t access the upper pitch of Chopstix. You can and it’s still untracked. Turn left and ski 1000’ of perfect pitch and loose trees. Enjoy the applause you receive and hightail it back to Chair #21.

Run #6 & #7: Outer Mongolia – a long traverse to the Mongolia Poma, Lift #21, from the top of Chair #21 takes five minutes but you’ll stay ahead of the gathering hordes for two more untracked shots – it’s worth it. Each of these laps takes a half an hour, so now it’s 11:30am and Vail is officially tracked out on a weekend.

If you’ve made a lunch reservation at Sweet Basil or Mountain Standard, now’s the time to ski down past Chair #21 to Teacup Express, Chair #36. Lift Teacup Chair #36 and ski down the front side of Vail for your Noon table.

But if you’ve booked a Mountain Guide, this is when you’ll lift, exit the crowd scene, and skin to the East Vail Chutes for another 3500 feet of backcountry powder turns… and a 1:30pm table at Sweet Basil or Mountain Standard.

Enjoy!

After a big powder day in the Back Bowls, the author and his boys get set for a lap in Marvin’s, East Vail Chutes.  

James Dudley